Andrew Wong’s sequel to A Wong offers an affordable menu centred on perfectly cooked roast meat
Andrew Wong’s follow up to his critically acclaimed A Wong restaurant (see number 11) could have easily been a cynical cash-in on his name. Yet despite its location in an uncompromisingly modern City development, Kym’s is a surprisingly personal project. It is, after all, named after his parents’ original restaurant in Victoria, which Wong took over in 2012 following the death of his father and turned into one of the UK’s most forward-thinking and respected Chinese restaurants.
Kym’s isn’t a homage to his parents’ old place, but it is a play for more mainstream territory offering an affordable menu centred on perfectly cooked roasted meats (City workers can grab lunch to take away for less than a tenner).
Like A Wong, the rest of the menu can be broadly described as modern Chinese, with Wong taking dishes from all over China and tweaking them, although not to the extent the dishes cease to feel authentically Chinese. Other highlights include lemongrass salad with peanuts, lettuce, chilli and lime; silken tofu, 100-year egg, garlic soy; crispy duck with pancake and plum; and Hong Kong pineapple bun with custard.
The design playbook is eclectic with subtle Chinese references including reclaimed turquoise terracotta roof tiles (think Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon) and a striking up-lit cherry blossom positioned over the curved staircase that leads up to the mezzanine area.