Simon Rogan’s London outpost takes elements of his Cumbrian flagship to create a cosmopolitan dining experience
Initially opened as a two-year pop-up in Marylebone, Simon Rogan’s Roganic is now a permanent feature of London’s dining landscape, having acquired a larger site on the same street.
While it takes some of the elements that made the chef’s L’Enclume restaurant in Cartmel one of the most vaunted places to eat in the country, Roganic ploughs its own furrow: a city-centric take on a farm-to-table restaurant concept focusing on natural wines and fresh and foraged ingredients.
The Blandford Street restaurant has its own identity, with a strikingly modern dining room that gives the proceedings a casual, cosmopolitan vibe. The space has a stripped-back feel with white walls and hard lines softened by muted colours. Little jars of ferments and pickles sit on shelves seamlessly built into the walls. Tablecloths there may be, but the service from the young and trendy front-of-house team is laid back and convivial.
There are £65 and £85 tasting menus, but Roganic offers plenty of other options for people who are more constrained on time and budget, including an express business lunch.
Much of the product used by the kitchen is grown on Rogan’s Cumbria farm and used in dishes including beetroot, pork belly and sunflower; monkfish with brassicas and tarragon; and rhubarb with buttermilk and earl grey. Londoners who want a more involved ‘Rogan experience’ may want to check out Aulis, a development kitchen-and-counter dining concept down the road in Soho.