Part of a new generation of young, ambitious chefs that are pushing the boundaries of what British food can be, Brad Carter goes deeper than most into exploring the idea of terroir in cooking. Wild game, foraged herbs, forgotten ingredients and rare-breed animals are the lifeblood of a cooking style that looks to change how we think about our own food. The fact that this is happening in Moseley – a quiet suburb of Birmingham – shows just how far British cuisine has come.
Set up by Carter and his partner Holly Jackson, the Michelin-starred restaurant is tiny – one room and an open kitchen, where modern cooking techniques are applied to heritage ingredients across a series of tasting menus.
Dishes are inventive and playful, such as the signature Porthilly oysters cooked in beef fat or razor clams with Old Winchester cheese and Pepper Dulse – a kind of British take on cacio e pepe. Other produce-led plates could include grilled Cornish lamb piled up with peas and sea lettuce; and homemade Staffordshire oatcakes with gooey Bix cheese, mead and pollen.
The obsession with terroir and flavour stretches to the drinks list, which showcases natural and biodynamic wines made with indigenous varietals, plus ales from Warwickshire-based brewery Purity. While the kitchen obviously takes its food very seriously, there’s no sense of stuffiness in the dining room where Jackson and her team bring an easy, sparkly charm to proceedings. Added together and it feels like something rather momentous is happening in Moseley.
The OpenTable Diners’ Choice ‘Fit for Foodies’ Award is sponsored by OpenTable