Whatley Manor’s precociously talented executive chef Niall Keating is serving up surprisingly affordable dishes from a graffiti-covered street food truck.
What is it?
A graffiti-covered street food truck that is temporarily and it must be said somewhat incongruously located within the manicured grounds of Cotswolds hotel Whatley Manor. The Paradise Carriage was most recently parked up at the Exchange Bar & Kitchen in Hanley, Stoke on Trent where the hotel’s executive chef Niall Keating began the lockdown period using it to cook and deliver meals to key workers.
What’s the food like?
The food is inspired by Whatley Manor’s more casual Grey’s Brasserie rather than its flagship restaurant The Dining Room, which holds a brace of Michelin stars for its sophisticated, Asian-influenced cuisine (Keating has a stonking CV that includes time at the three Michelin-starred Benu in San Francisco).
Does it at least have two Michelin tyres?
Unconfirmed. The menu sounds fantastic, though, with dishes including crispy Cornish turbot on brioche, lemon and gherkin mayonnaise, watercress and spring onion; ajoblanca (chilled almond and garlic soup), fresh grapes and croûtons; and the WM cheese steak with grilled onions and bell peppers, fries and toasted bun. A short drinks list is also be available, including wine by the bottle and local beers.
What are the prices like?
Given Keating’s pedigree they’re practically giving it a way – none of the dishes are north of a tenner. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the Paradise Carriage has been mobbed. Led by Keating and the hotel’s general manager Sue Williams, the skeleton team has been serving nearly 200 people on busy days. Paradise Carriage is open Wednesday to Saturday (4.30pm-9pm) and for Sunday lunch (noon-4pm).
Can you eat the food on site?
Sadly not. Williams was originally given the nod by the EHO but they backtracked. Whatley Manor is set within 12 acres, so distancing would not have been an issue. Oh well, perhaps this is something that can be introduced later – the plan is for the Paradise Carriage to stay on after the rest of the hotel re-opens.
What does Whatley Manor have planned in terms of reopening?
The plan is to go back to normal, or at least as close to normal as possible. One thing to look forward to is a special menu to celebrate Keating’s barnstorming performance on Great British Menu (he won the fish course and was named Champion of Champions). Whatley Manor is taking bookings from 4 July. For information about the hotel and Paradise Carriage head here.
