67

Annwn

Narbeth

Hyper local food with a sustainable conscience

£££££

Located in Pembrokeshire in Wales, Annwn describes itself as a Welsh food movement that pays homage to its Welsh surroundings and landscapes.

Here chef-patron Matt Powell serves a single 10-course menu that changes during the seasons using ingredients that are not only local to the area, including many that are foraged close by - often within walking distance of the restaurant - but those that support sustainable producers and the country’s wild ecosystems.

A meal at Annwn starts with a selection of snacks, that might include bread ‘cooked on the planc’ and seasonal offerings such as cured and air-dried meats before getting to the heart of the matter with a procession of dishes that celebrate Pembrokeshire’s bounty and which feature some unusual and not often used ingredients. Previous dishes have included the likes of a Kilpaison oyster with purée, estuary plants, and an oyster cracker; a broth of velvet swimmer crab, St Brides prawns, sea buckthorn emulsification, sea radish and (nicer than it sounds) scurvy grass; and mallard accompanied by damson Paste, hazelnuts, and preserved hogweed seeds.

Plating is meticulous, with dishes served on a wide variety of crockery and items from the natural world to accentuate the restaurant’s natural approach. By contrast, the dining room is less formal than the food’s presentation might suggest, with wooden tables and chairs, dark slate flooring, and vintage furniture creating a rustic but comfortable space in tune with its surroundings.