Bright

Hackney, London

It may rarely be open for lunch, but Bright is a restaurant that feels like it’s ahead of the curve

£££££

This cool and confident Hackney hotspot – which was described last year by Grace Dent as being “future-facing, lovingly sourced and whip-smart” – has managed to make the top 100 despite barely being open for a year, and (unusually for London) only offering lunch between Friday and Sunday (it is open every night for dinner).

Bright is from the same team as the lauded P. Franco, a low-intervention wine bar and dining counter on nearby Clapton Road with a changeable rota of chefs that has included William Gleave and former Brawn head chef Peppe Belvedere, who have now taken up residency in Bright’s kitchen.

The ever-changing, single-sheet menu serves a variety of shellfish and pasta dishes, along with a small selection of heartier fish and meat plates and a series of meticulously-crafted snacks to help whet your appetite.

Current staples include katsu sando of chicken or pork, served between slices of white bread with shredded cabbage and a dollop of hot mustard on the side; tagliolini with porcini butter and black truffle; and whole grilled turbot served on the bone. Plus, let’s not forget Bright’s legendary lasagna fritta (although do call in advance as they are not always on the menu).

The dining room is, as the restaurant’s name denotes, a bright and breezy space with clean-cut wooden furniture, a blend of white and mossy green walls, and a spectacular polished metal fluorescent strip light suspended over the bar. It’s warm and inviting, but crucially never comes across like it’s trying too hard.

1 Westgate St, Hackney, London, E8 3RL

020 3095 9407

E-mail

Visit website