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Gorse

Cardiff

Chef Tom Waters has hit the ground running at this tiny yet brilliant modern Welsh restaurant

£££££

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Tom Waters made history earlier this year by bagging the Welsh capital its first ever Michelin star. Not bad going given that Gorse is the chef’s debut restaurant and had been open for less than 12 months.

Named after the shrub with bright yellow flowers and sharp, needle-like leaves that covers much of the Welsh landscape, the unassuming Pontcanna restaurant is focused on seasonal Welsh produce. Waters - whose CV includes The Fat Duck and The Square - is one of just a handful of high-reaching chefs to take this approach in Wales, which is odd given the high quality of the country’s ingredients.

Gorse is one of the most accessible fine dining restaurants on this list offering tasting menus from as little as £60 per head. But the longer tasting menu is where the kitchen’s ambition shines, with standout dishes including the likes of Pembrokeshire mackerel with horseradish, lovage and apple; roasted kelp custard with N25 Kaluga Hybrid caviar; and a clever dish of rhubarb partnered with toasted hay cream, egg yolk jam and lavender. 

Service is polished but relaxed with the minimalist Nordic-inspired 22-cover interior keeping the focus firmly on the food. Striking a balance between classic and new wave winemakers, Gorse’s wine list complements Waters' cooking beautifully but don’t miss out on the restaurant’s signature Martini, which is flavoured with local seaweed.