An unassuming north Cornwall restaurant that’s home to the country’s greatest seafood chef
Nathan Outlaw’s flagship is perhaps the UK’s most understated two Michelin-starred restaurant – a simple space that lets stunning sea views do the talking (the team whitewashed the walls themselves). Arguably the country’s most skilled fish chef, Outlaw moved the restaurant to Port Isaac in 2015 – it used to be down the coast in Rock – to be closer to his suppliers.
Spankingly fresh seafood is central to Outlaw’s approach and allows him to create the wow factor with disarmingly simple dishes. Just one £140 tasting menu is available. Not cheap, but then the chef himself will almost certainly be in the kitchen (Outlaw rarely misses a service).
Despite its top-end credentials, the kitchen is a champion of less glamorous seafood, with gurnard and mackerel just as likely to make a starring appearance as lobster and turbot. With a close connection to Cornwall’s fishing industry, Outlaw is an authority on what’s sustainable and what isn’t.
The food is made all the more enjoyable because the day boats, which catch much of the fish on the menu, are usually visible from the restaurant. The current menu includes the likes of steamed bass, onion and red wine tartare dressing; and grilled John Dory, dill, Porthilly oyster and oyster sauce.
With only 20 or so covers getting a table is not easy, however, anyone in the locale who can’t get a reservation should look no further than the more informal Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen, located within a 15th century fisherman’s cottage moments down the road.