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The Cedar Tree by Hrishikesh Desai

Brampton

Combining influences of French and Indian cooking, Hrishikesh Desai’s country hotel restaurant is bringing something new to Cumbria’s dining scene

£££££

Hrishikesh Desai's latest venture certainly doesn’t follow the conventions of other fine dining restaurants in Cumbria. Forget the foraging approach that has become the well trodden route for the majority of the county’s high-reaching establishments, Cedar Tree instead follows a more classical path when it comes to dining, albeit one seasoned with contemporary ideas.

A former Roux Scholar and celebrated star of the north west food scene, Desai’s reputation for culinary brilliance precedes him. His top-flight cooking CV includes time with Thomas Keller at The French Laundry in California, and ta Les Maison de Bricourt and Le Chateau de Bagnol in France. His background is classical French, which here he marries with twists of Indian spice.

It’s a highly inventive approach. Each dish on Cedar Tree’s extensive tasting menu showcases British produce, including a wide variety of vegetables and herbs from the kitchen garden. The cooking is delicate but not to the detriment of flavour, with every course carefully crafted to tingle the senses.

Named after the ancient tree that stands in front of it, the restaurant sits inside the Farlam Hall Hotel. The dining room itself is light and welcoming area, with high ceilings and impressive opulent touches. The calming views out to the gardens and lake add to the relaxing atmosphere.