95

The Dew Drop Inn

Hurley

Simon Bonwick is back to his best at this Berkshire pub setting

£££££

Simon Bonwick has been a mainstay of the Berkshire dining scene for decades having previously manned the kitchen at The Crown Burchetts Green (now under the auspices of The Beehive chef Dominic Chapman) and Black Boys Inn. Launched in 2022, The Dew Drop Inn saw the chef return to cooking unaided following a brief spell leading a brigade in London at The Princess of Shoreditch. Fans of Bonwick’s food will be pleased to know his approach remains largely unchanged with the chef offering often amusingly-described classic cuisine with the odd twist presented in an equally classical manner (Bonwick loves an old school garnish).

Dishes for which the chef has become synonymous include beef fillet 'cooked on a string' with a rather nice sauce; fresh fish cooked in the style of Provence; and comforting desserts like hot syrup pudding with ice cream. Working as ‘soloist’ in the kitchen might sound limiting but it keeps standards high with Bonwick never having to rely on anyone else (The Crown Burchetts Green held a Michelin star).

The Dew Drop Inn dates back to the 16th century and sits between Hurley and Burchetts Green, close to the towns of Marlow and Henley. The Brakspear-owned pub is smaller than The Crown Burchetts Green with a tiny bar and a 20-cover dining room. As is often the case with Bonwick’s endevours, it is a family affair with the chef assisted by his wife Deborah and a selection of their nine (yes nine) children.

“The pub industry remains alluring to us, it’s continually shown its innovative excellence through the pandemic, and has continued to display fortitude through Brexit, a war and now a recession. The rural pub can’t be lost,” Deborah says. “The Dew Drop Inn has been positively nagging away at the two of us for years, everything about it is beautiful. As the new guardians we will build on its location and local community in our particular way.”