Whatley Manor

Malmesbury, Wiltshire

Niall Keating cooks edgy, Asian influenced food in one of the Cotswolds’ most vaunted country house hotels

£££££

Niall Keating took on this Cotswolds country house hotel aged 25, taking over from two Michelin-star chef Martin Burge. That’s very young indeed for such a high profile position, but Keating has a world class cooking CV that includes time with Sat Bains, and with Korean-American chef Corey Lee at Benu in San Francisco.

Shortly after taking over he was named European Chef of the Year by the Michelin Guide, cementing his status as a young chef to watch. Keating oversees a number of restaurants at Whatley but the flagship is The Dining Room, which offers a single £120 tasting menu (vegetarian and vegan options are available).

The meal is heavily influenced by Asia and starts in Keating’s top-of-the-line and rather space age-looking kitchen with a selection of snacks, including pomelo marinated in chilli and lime; tempura eel with perilla; and a melon fresca dotted with caviar oil.

Dishes served in The Dining Room itself include Perigord truffle custard garnished with gold leaf (a take on chawanmushi); risotto laced with a powerful chorizo purée that’s topped with raw scallop; a xiaolongbao-like tortellini dish in pork fat sauce; and salmon paired with yeast buerre blanc.

The space has a traditional feel that’s somewhat at odds with Keating’s modern approach, but young, clued-up staff and a wine list that balances the classic with the hip gives the restaurant an extra bit of edge.

 

National Restaurant
month offer

A complimentary house cocktail on arrival when booking a meal in the Dining Room on Thursday, Friday and Sunday evenings

Quote: EDNRA

*offer valid only for bookings between 11th June and 10th July

The Dining Room at Whatley Manor, Easton Grey, Malmesbury, Wiltshire, SN16 0RB

01666 822888

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