Niall Keating cooks edgy, Asian influenced food in one of the Cotswolds’ most vaunted country house hotels
Niall Keating took on this Cotswolds country house hotel aged 25, taking over from two Michelin-star chef Martin Burge. That’s very young indeed for such a high profile position, but Keating has a world class cooking CV that includes time with Sat Bains, and with Korean-American chef Corey Lee at Benu in San Francisco.
Shortly after taking over he was named European Chef of the Year by the Michelin Guide, cementing his status as a young chef to watch. Keating oversees a number of restaurants at Whatley but the flagship is The Dining Room, which offers a single £145 gastronomic tasting menu (vegetarian and vegan options are available).
Food full of personality is how Keating describes his approach and it’s hard to argue with him. Dishes served in The Dining Room itself could include homemade charcuterie; white miso terrine, mushroom, trout roe; and red mullet with nashi pear, squid ink and abalone
The space has a traditional feel that’s somewhat at odds with Keating’s modern approach, but young, clued-up staff and a wine list that balances the classic with the hip gives the restaurant an extra bit of edge.