One to Watch

Named after the Midland Grand Hotel, the gothic revival 19th century hotel that is now the St Pancras Renaissance hotel, chef Patrick Powell and restaurateur Harry Handelsman's latest project brings fancy fine dining to an even fancier location.

Powell, who also oversees the food at Stratford-based restaurant Allegra, has created a menu that matches the splendour of the vast high-ceilinged listed dining room but also celebrates modernity with a menu that reflects adjacent St Pancras station’s position as a gateway to Paris and Europe. Dishes have a strong French influence and the menu features a large helping of classic dishes, many of which have been brought up to date by Powell’s deft touch.

Appetisers range from one-bite wonders, such as a parmesan fritter with black garlic and shaved coppa; and delicate comté gougères, pickled walnut; to a heartier yet still light silky liver parfait topped with truffle and madeira jelly served with a duck fat parker house roll. Entrees, meanwhile, include a textbook pâté en croûte du jour; and a striking dish of pommes pallaison, snails bourgiugnon, nduja and guanciale.

Portion sizes are generous with mains that include roasted lamb, pomme anna, spiced aubergine and sauce Provençale; and grilled poussin, red pepper glaze, green olive tapenade. There's also a number of dishes also designed for two to share, including a whole roast chicken with Vin Jaune, morels and wild garlic.

Dishes are supported by a predominantly Old World wine list that showcases established as well as more up-and-coming producers.

Occupying the site that was formerly home to Marcus Wareing’s The Gilbert Scott, The Midland Grand Dining Room benefits from a successful attempt by designer Hugo Toro to bring warmth to the room with foliage, huge gilt mirrors, a lick of burnt orange paint and art from Handelsman’s private collection.

This is fancy dining at its finest.