17

Myse

Hovingham

Joshua and Vicky Overington have created something truly special in north Yorkshire

£££££

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Launched in 2023, Mýse follows the success of Joshua and Vicky Overington’s now closed Le Cochon Aveugle restaurant in York. Located about 30 minutes’ drive north in the village of Hovingham, their new project is intended as a softer-edged, more experiential counterpoint to the urban and, at times, edgy restaurant with which the pair made their name. 

Another important difference between Mýse and Le Cochon is that its culinary inspiration and to some extent its ingredients come from closer to home. This is partly due to its rural location and also because the pair are now looking to create a narrative-driven restaurant experience with the menu referencing the food Joshua ate as a child. Described by the chef as ‘elevated grandma cooking’, the food is high-end and creative but is largely inspired by hearty dishes. 

Overseen by Vicky, the 300-bin wine list is big on classic wine regions with a focus on producers from eastern France (both originally from the UK, the pair met in the Alps). The site that Mýse occupies was formerly home to a gastropub but is now pretty much unrecognisable as such thanks to a total refurbishment that has seen the interior brightened and comprehensively decluttered and the rear of the site remodelled to create an open kitchen that befits Joshua’s considerable talent (the kitchen at the Overington’s last place was laughably small).
 
With a dining room staffed by young, enthusiastic and largely local staff, Mýse dazzles, delivering an experience that is unapologetically geared toward special occasions with an impressive lightness of touch.