Elystan Street became a London classic pretty much overnight when it launched in 2016. Its chef-patron Phillip Howard is among the capital’s most treasured chefs having headed iconic The Square for a staggering 25 years. The food is more relaxed at Elystan Street than at the Mayfair restaurant to which he dedicated so much of his life, but Howard’s talent continues to shine through in every dish.
Thus, Elystan Street is a smart and classy neighbourhood restaurant par excellence, with Howard’s cooking all the better for him having been unshackled from the sometimes-suffocating trappings of a two-star kitchen and its fussy amuse bouches and pre-desserts. The post code also allows Howard to offer a set lunch menu with prices more akin to Côte than Michelin-starred dining.
Dishes are straightforward and use standout seasonal ingredients to great effect. As you’d expect from a neighbourhood joint there are a number of classics that rarely leave the menu, including Howard’s hand-cut strozzapretti; double-baked cheese soufflé; and his peerless lemon tart.
If you’ve never tried Howard’s food before don’t delay - he’s said Elystan Street is his “last hurrah”.
