8. A Wong

Victoria, London

Leave your preconceptions at the door – Andrew Wong’s flagship showcases the scope and intricacy of Chinese cuisine in truly thrilling fashion

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This, on first inspection at least, unremarkable-looking Chinese is one of the capital’s most interesting and progressive restaurants. Oxford graduate Andrew Wong took over his parents’ common-or-garden Anglo Chinese in 2012 following the death of his father. Originally planning a life far removed from restaurants, Wong says it was pure luck he ended up falling in love with cooking.

His menus showcase a mix of the familiar – there are takes on Cantonese restaurant classics such as sweet and sour chicken and crispy duck with pancakes – with Chinese flavours and dishes that are virtually unknown in the UK. The restaurant points to the fact that China has 14 international borders with each one offering a diverse cuisine, and at A Wong the intention is to give a flavour of them.

There’s a salad of seared beef with mint, chilli and lemongrass that hails from Yunnan, a province in south-west China that borders Vietnam, and a pulled lamb ‘burger’ spiced with cumin and speckled with pomegranate that takes its cues from the predominantly Muslim region of Xinjiang in the north-west of the country. Other standout dishes include braised abalone, shitake mushroom, sea cucumber and abalone butter; and barbecued pork jerky.

Run by Wong’s wife Nathalie, the 42-cover dining room is relaxed and unpretentious. The dim sum-focused lunch menu is a bargain with intricately made dumplings priced from just £2, as is the restaurant’s 10-course Taste of China tasting menu.

 

70 Wilton Road, Pimlico, Victoria, London, SW1V 1DE

020 7828 8931

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