Evelyn's Table

Soho, London

Don’t be put off by the pub basement location, the Selby’s debut is right up there with the very best in the capital

£££££

Accessed via an unpromising looking alley off the Chinatown end of Rupert Street, Evelyn’s Table occupies the basement of well-known West End pub The Blue Posts. The tiny counter restaurant - there are just 12 seats - is home to brothers Luke, Nathaniel and Theo Selby. The trio is led by older brother Luke, a formidable and highly driven culinary talent who has held senior roles at some of the country’s best-known restaurants, often assisted by his two younger siblings.

Launched mere days before the pandemic in 2020, the restaurant offers a stripped-back and surprisingly good value experience given the pedigree of the chefs behind it. Attention to detail is the name of the game here - a small, close-knit team and only a dozen guests per service (there are two each evening) means standards are sky high.

The Selbys' food is produce led, blending French, British and Japanese elements (Luke has cooked in Japan and is fascinated with the country’s meticulous approach to cuisine). There’s minimal gadgetry, with the brothers tending to gravitate towards more classic technique.

The approach to drinks is modern, with the drinks pairing combing wine, sake and beer (well, it is beneath a pub). The space is carefully designed, but is far from being luxe with an overall aesthetic that’s more dive bar than gastronomic destination - and all the better for it.

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