The Devonshire

Soho, London

Cooking over embers at Soho’s hottest pub and restaurant


Few new openings have managed to create as much buzz as Ashley Palmer-Watts, Charlie Carroll, and Oisin Rogers’ Soho pub and restaurant, which quickly became one of the hottest tables in town when it launched at the end of 2023. But then few ventures can boast such a partnership that includes a former right hand man to Heston Blumenthal, a self-certified meat geek and Flat Iron founder, and a pub landlord extraordinaire.

With The Devonshire the trio have managed to achieve something almost unthinkable in the capital - a pub that is both bustling (and by bustling we mean almost constantly rammed) and an upstairs restaurant that has won countless praise for its superb cooking.

How does it achieve this? Rogers’ unrivalled understanding of the London pub scene and an unswerving desire to serve the best Guinness anywhere in the world plays a crucial role, as does Carroll’s restaurant know-how and Palmer-Watts' expertise in the kitchen. Other factors include using super hight quality ingredients - butchery is done in house by head butcher George Donnelly - and having perfected the dark art of cooking over embers.

Despite such efforts behind the scenes the team have kept prices incredibly competitive with a £29 set lunch for three courses of prawn and langoustine cocktail, steak and chips, and sticky toffee pudding one of the best value meals in the capital.

On the ground floor of the multi-storey venue gilet-clad Londoners jostle for a peerless pint of Guinness, but climb the stairs to The Devonshire’s various dining rooms  - including its roof terrace - and the experience is altogether more serene.