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Quo Vadis

London

The great dame of Dean Street has the air of exclusivity but without the door policy

£££££

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Led by the inimitable Jeremy Lee, the Dean Street restaurant reopened early in 2023 after a makeover that doubled the number of covers to 40 but retained its stained glass windows and crisp white tablecloths as well as its intimate - if not slightly exclusive - feel.

Beyond the uptick in size it’s business as usual, with Lee putting together a menu of heart warmingly good food that jumps off the beautifully designed menu cards. Dishes change on a regular basis, but you can always rely on there being a pie of the day option that you can pair with pommes frites as well as the signature smoked eel sandwich - some of the best couple of bites to be had in the capital.

Desserts - or ‘pudding’, as the restaurant calls them - are quintessentially British and could include buttermilk pudding with apricot; brown sugar meringue, gooseberry and almonds; and pear and ginger crème brulee.

Quo Vadis has the intimacy and understated opulence of a private members club without the stuffiness or door policy that is so often a deterrent. As Soho bustles by, there is arguably no finer space in which to sit back, order a second carafe of wine and be transported to a calmer, more congenial world.