One Club Row

The creation of James Dye and Benjy Leibowitz, One Club Row is located above gastropub The Knave of Clubs and is accessed by an inauspicious but much photographed graffiti covered door to the back of the pub.The restaurant, which is inspired by the brasseries of Paris and taverns of New York, was last year's One to Watch and its enduring popularity means that it has made it onto the 2026 list proper. The appeal is simple: One Club Row is an unashamedly crowd-pleasing offer, with big flavours and hearty portions, a strong drinks offer that leans into the martini, and a bright and buzzy first floor dining room that makes you feel you could step outside and be in Brooklyn.

Start with the pickled jalapeño gougères and the steak tartare with beef dripping bread before moving on to the burger au poivre that comes with a jug of rich peppercorn sauce for dunking, or the pork schnitzel with sauce moutarde and gorgonzola.

The space itself has been lovingly restored, with original 19th century panelling, fireplace and cornicing still intact, complemented by a series of prints from London artist Joy Yamusangie. It's a buzzy, jovial space that has old fashioned hospitality at its core.