Intelligently offbeat seasonal cooking and great wine served in beautiful surrounds
On the site of a former kid’s café, Perilla serves creatively offbeat dishes (its £44 tasting menu currently kicks off with yesterday’s bread soaked in moules mariniére). The beautifully-designed space is flooded with natural light and is on the grown up side of hip with pendant lighting, a mix of marble and wooden tables and some distressed elements, like a characterful bare brick wall behind the bar.
On the very southern end of Green Lanes near Newington Green, the restaurant was launched in 2016 by former The Square chef Ben Marks and Polpo front-of-house man Matt Emmerson (the former’s mentor Phil Howard is one of a number of high profile backers).
The menu has been designed to achieve a low price point and also to be served from Perilla’s unusually small kitchen. Other dishes on offer (the restaurant also does a short à la carte menu) include gurnard fried in beef fat with chip shop curry sauce; grilled pluma of Iberico pork with garlic, parsley and chorizo; and chocolate with salt caramel, roasted peanuts and kelp.
Unusually, Perilla has a wine list that changes with the seasons to better complement the food and the team also creates its own infused vodkas and gins. Look out for Monday Night Wine Club, which sees selected wines available at a considerable discount. The restaurant takes sustainability seriously and recently started working with a grower in West Sussex who collects Perilla’s food waste and uses it to grow some of the kitchen’s fresh produce.