Simpson's in The Strand

Only one person could have brought Simpson's in The Strand, the historic London restaurant on Piccadilly back to life following its closure in 2000, and that man is Jeremy King, former custodian of The Ivy and co-founder of The Wolseley. Not only has King revived the famous grill room, in which figures including Winston Churchill and PG Wodehouse used to frequent, but he has created not one but two beautiful bars, a separate restaurant called Romano's, and reopened the venue's banqueting space. 

Upstairs, at the more casual Romano's, which promises the lighter side of English dining, guests can eat shepherd's pie and grilled spatchcock and chips in neoclassical surrounds among faux marble columns, Wedgwood-inspired friezes, and green leather upholstery, yet it is downstairs at the Grand Divan grill room where the real magic happens. Here Master Carvers in toques serve roast rib of Devonshire beef from Simpson's famous silver trolleys and diners can choose from a vast and all-encompassing that also includes options such as boiled ham and parsley sauce; railway mutton curry; and Woolton pie. There's also a daily changing pie menu and a whole rabbit with morel mushrooms and grain mustard fricassee for two to share for dinner, but save room for a slice of treacle tart or spotted dick and custard.

King has lovingly and painstakingly breathed fresh life into this 200-year-old building, keeping alive traditions that deserve to be retained and celebrated. For that London's dining public owes him a great deal.