Stacks of value and creativity are on offer at Neil Bentinck’s bijou small-plates restaurant in the walled city
Skosh takes its name from the Japanese word ‘sukoshi’, which means ‘a small amount’. It’s a big clue to the style of food you can expect from the open kitchen, where chef-patron Neil Bentinck sends out a procession of small plates that deftly mix influences from Britain, Europe and Asia, especially Japan.
It’s an ambitious approach that has been gleefully embraced by locals and visitors, after rave reviews from national critics, helping to turn Micklegate into a food and drink hotspot in the walled city.
The menu’s wandering spirit takes many unexpected twists and turns through its snacks, raw, veg, fish, and meat options, of which three or four dishes are available. Think chicken liver parfait with summer truffle ponzu and milk bread; north sea squid spiked with punchy with nahm jim; and beetroots, goats curd and furikake. Such globetrotting flavours reflect Bentinck’s own experiences. Born to an English mum and Indian dad, he spent time living and travelling in Asia and Australia, before returning to work in restaurants including The Pipe and Glass, Van Zellar, Northcote and The Star Inn at Harome.
Homemade sourdough with organic butter and gunpowder spices, a cutting-edge cheeseboard and well thought-out wine list with every option by the glass add to the dining experience.
Skosh opened in 2016 in a Grade II-listed building, which was refurbished with a muted colour scheme and simple wooden furniture to create a pared-back space where the exuberance of the food takes centre stage. The people of York couldn’t be happier.