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SY23 Restaurant

Aberystwyth

Stripped back, high-impact dining helping to the Welsh seaside town on the culinary map

£££££

Former Ynyshir head chef Nathan Davies’ debut solo venture was named Opening of the Year by Michelin back in 2022 and since then the chef-patron hasn’t looked back.

Like his mentor, Gareth Ward, Davies likes to cook over fire but at SY23 he makes use of the best local produce for a memorable dining experience that is more than the sum of its parts. Ward’s influence is apparent at SY23, not least the dark coloured walls, lively soundtrack and Asian influence found in some dishes, but Davies has successfully managed to put his own stamp on the restaurant world with a menu that is a celebration of its location and of time-honoured cooking techniques.

SY23’s menu is a tale of two parts. The meal starts with a small loaf of bread made from local heritage grains that is accompanied by a healthy (or possibly unhealthy) serving of cultured miso butter before a quartet of fish and meat dishes arrive made with locally-caught ingredients. A pause is then provided by an optional cheese course before four desserts round things off.

For something slightly different, the restaurant also has an all-weather, outside dining area called Y Sgwâr with fire pits built into the tables. Here Davies serves a more accessible small plates menu that has more of a European focus with dishes such as focaccia with pickled salad, and new potatoes with garlic aioli and lemon.
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