London’s only Michelin-starred pub continues to deliver the goods thanks to the hugely talented Sally Abé
A lot has changed in the restaurant world since The Harwood Arms first opened in 2009. Food fads and fashions have come and gone, but the Fulham pub has stuck to its original premise – superb British food, well-kept ale and a serious wine list.
It’s a philosophy that has served it well. At the time of writing, The Harwood is London’s only Michelin-starred pub and its simple wooden bar and dining room is still hugely popular with locals and south-west London day trippers (book well ahead if you want a table).
A large part of its success is down to the people who run it. Brett Graham, chef-patron at The Ledbury, is a director, and the current head chef is Sally Abé, who has worked with Graham and chef Phil Howard.
Game and wild food remain a focus with the signature venison scotch eggs still a fixture, alongside dishes that flex with the season. Roast muntjac with celeriac, swiss chard and pickled pear, perhaps, or braised pork jowl with crushed peas, broad beans and black pudding. There’s also plenty of value in the weekday set lunch menu – three courses for under £30 is one of the great bargains of the capital.
There is a choice of cask ales on the pumps, but these are trumped by the excellent wine selection, which has many by the glass and half bottle, plus well chosen vintages from top-end vineyards at keen prices.
Here’s to another 10 years of the same.