London’s only Michelin-starred pub continues to deliver the goods
A lot has changed in the restaurant world since The Harwood Arms first opened in 2009. Food fads and fashions have come and gone, but the Fulham pub has stuck to its original premise – superb British food, well-kept ale and a serious wine list.
It’s a philosophy that has served it well. At the time of writing, The Harwood is London’s only Michelin-starred pub and its simple wooden bar and dining room is still hugely popular with locals and south-west London day trippers (book well ahead if you want a table).
A large part of its success is down to the people who run it. Brett Graham, chef-patron at former two Michelin-starred The Ledbury, is a director, and head chef is Jake Leach, who took over the kitchens when Sally Abé departed in early 2021 to open The Pem. Leach has a strong pedigree having worked with Simon Rogan at Fera and Graham at The Ledbury for five years where he rose to head chef.
Game and wild food remain a focus of the menu thanks to the involvement of game supremo Mike Robinson, who is a co-owner of the business. Dishes include starters of Muntjac pate en croute; and Berkswell cheese tart with hearty mains such as red ruby beef short rib; and Cornish cod with hispi cabbage.
Staying true to its pub roots, there’s also a strong selection of top notch bar snacks, including a guinea fowl sausage roll; potato crisps with cods roe; and a birch-glazed chicken kebabs that can be washed down with a choice of cask ales on the pumps. If wine’s more your thing there’s also an excellent wine selection with many available by the glass and half bottle as well as vintages from top-end vineyards at keen prices.