The Midland Grand Dining Room

King's Cross, London

Patrick Powell and Harry Handelsman's superb St Pancras restaurant is fancy dining at its finest


Entrepreneur Harry Handelsman and chef Patrick Powell are surely one of the London restaurant scenes most effective partnerships. The pair originally worked together at Handelsman’s Chiltern Firehouse where Powell was head chef for four years and then continued their partnership when Powell went on to open Allegra, located on the 7th floor of Handelsman’s Manhattan Loft Gardens in Stratford, in 2019. But it is at The Midland Grand Dining Room that they’ve truly reached the apex of their powers.

Previously singled out as a One to Watch by the National Restaurant Awards, The Midland Grand Dining Room is named after the Midland Grand Hotel, the gothic revival 19th century hotel that is now the St Pancras Renaissance hotel. Occupying the site that was formerly home to Marcus Wareing’s The Gilbert Scott, the restaurant’s dining room benefits from a successful attempt by designer Hugo Toro to bring warmth to the room with foliage, huge gilt mirrors, a lick of burnt orange paint and art from Handelsman’s private collection.

Powell has created a menu that matches the splendour of the vast high-ceilinged listed dining room, but also celebrates modernity. Nodding towards St Pancras station’s position as a gateway to Paris and Europe, the cooking has a strong French influence, and the menu features a large helping of classic dishes, many of which have been brought up to date by Powell’s deft touch.

Portion sizes are generous, and dishes are supported by a predominantly Old-World wine list that showcases established as well as more up-and-coming producers. Truly this is fancy dining at its finest.