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Akoko

Fitzrovia, London

Taking diners on a culinary journey through West African cuisine

£££££

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Akoko, which translates as ‘time’ and also ’the first’ in Yoruba, a language spoken in West Africa, takes inspiration from the family recipes and travels of British Nigerian restaurateur Aji Akokomi, who opened the restaurant back in 2020.

Akokomi originally struggled to find the right chef to run his kitchen, but in Ayo Adeyemi he has clearly found the perfect person for the job. Adeyemi’s CV speaks for itself, with stints at  the Taj Campton Place Restaurant in San Francisco, which at the time held two Michelin stars, and Heston Blumenthal’s three Michelin-starred The Fat Duck in Bray, so it’s no surprise that within 18 months behind the stoves at Akoko he’s managed to secure the restaurant its first Michelin star.

Serving a tasting menu that runs for eight to 10 courses depending on supplements, Adeyemi’s cooking primarily draws influences from the cuisines of Nigeria, Ghana, Gambia and Senegal. The three cornerstones of Akoko’s culinary ethos are fire, umami, and spice and most dishes incorporate an element of live-fire cooking, courtesy of the custom wood fire grill that dominates the kitchen space. Plating, meanwhile, retains a minimalist style, intended to keep the focus on the punchy flavours of each dish.

There’s more to Akoko than the food alone, though. The entire restaurant experience has been curated to give an expression of West Africa. Its interiors, inspired by the natural beauty of rural West Africa, feature walls covered in terracotta clay and contemporary African art while every dish is served in a bespoke piece of handmade crockery. It’s smart, relaxing and immersive.

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