11

Kitchen Table

Fitzrovia, London

An up close and personal dining experience that showcases the raw culinary talent of James Knappett

£££££

Husband and wife team chef James Knappett and sommelier Sandia Chang worked in world famous restaurants Noma in Copenhagen and Per Se in New York before returning to London to open this counter dining restaurant in 2012 (it’s a partnership with JKS Restaurants, which also has the likes of Lyle’s and Sabor on its books).

In its first incarnation, the Charlotte Street restaurant was also home to the Bubbledogs hotdog and champagne concept, but shortly after the pandemic this was transformed into a new lounge and bar that now gives diner the option to go for a drink before or after their meal in the restaurant, which is to the rear of the space.

But the number of covers has not increased, with Knappett still serving just 15 covers sat around the horseshoe-shaped bar that surrounds the kitchen, with Chang on hand to guide customers through the restaurant’s eclectic wine cellar. Few chefs push harder than Knappett, and thus the price of the tasting menu has increased to the point that it is one of - if not actually the most - pricey restaurants in the capital.

The chef has the culinary chops to justify the high prices, using exceptional ingredients to create an ever-changing menu of small but perfectly formed, beautifully balanced dishes that make use of wide range of cooking techniques. Kitchen Table won its second star in 2018 and a third one must surely be in Knappett’s sights.

Check Availability