With a longer name, a fresher look, and a brand new robata grill in the kitchen, some may wonder whether Roy Brett’s renowned Edinburgh restaurant is poised for a change in direction. But with a menu still rich with quality seafood, fish definitely remains the dish of the day at Ondine.
Edinburgh-born Brett has a CV that includes St James’s stalwart Le Caprice and Rick Stein’s The Seafood Restaurant in Padstow, so it’s no surprise the quality of the fish and shellfish he serves is second to none. Fresh produce is sourced from various locations including the Shetlands and the south coast of England, but the bulk comes directly from Newhaven’s Welch Fishmongers.
Ever since the first spice boats docked in the port of Leith, the area’s food has been open to worldwide influences and that is the approach Ondine embraces in its menu. Isle of Mull scallop is served with satay skewers and Asian slaw; while the monkfish chop is cooked with masala and served with a mussel curry sauce.
Elsewhere, the introduction of the robata grill marks the start of an evolution of the menu, with more meaty options, including Perthshire rib of beef with truffle butter, set to be added over time.
Ondine was opened by Brett in the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town in 2009, and has become something of an institution in the Scottish capital. A ‘proper seafood restaurant’ is how the chef describes his place, and it’s hard to argue.