68. The Crown at Burchetts Green

Berkshire

An idiosyncratic chef who works unaided in the kitchen producing classical dishes with personality and flavour

£££££

Fine dining ventures don’t come much kookier than this. The Crown at Burchetts Green is a countryside pub run exclusively by one family.

Dad Simon Bonwick works unaided in the kitchen and nine of his family members – yes, nine, you read that right – work front of house. Bonwick senior spends the first few days of each week getting his ducks in a row before opening for business on Wednesdays. His food is French leaning – Eugénie Brazier, the first ever person to attract a total of six Michelin stars, is one of Bonwick’s main inspirations – and based on a mix of high quality French and UK-sourced produce. In his own words he is a soloist – one of a handful of chefs in the UK to cook completely unaided (he even does the washing up).

Menus are subject to change but Bonwick’s repertoire includes wild boar rillete with beer pickles; a slow-cooked veal cheek which comes with what is described as a ‘rather nice veal sauce’; and his beef fillet ‘steamed on string’ that shows his love of French technique.

Bonwick’s eldest sons Dean and George oversee the 20-cover dining room and have inherited their father’s somewhat idiosyncratic bent, presiding over a ‘haggle board’ of distinguished wines for which customers are required to barter.

Burchetts Green, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 6QZ

01628 824079

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